Mirador de Jinama, El Hierro: views over the El Golfo valley

The Mirador de Jinama crowns the escarpment separating El Hierro’s interior plateau from the El Golfo valley, at around 1,230 metres above sea level. It is one of the island’s best-known viewpoints and the place where, for centuries, the so-called mudadas began: the seasonal movement of families, belongings and livestock between the highland villages and the valley. Reaching the cliff edge and seeing the land drop almost vertically into El Golfo explains why this site is woven into El Hierro’s collective memory. It can be visited at any time of year and access is free.

The main sight is the El Golfo valley spread out below: a broad semicircle of fertile land with vineyards, banana plantations and pineapple crops, closed to the north by the sea. On days with a sea of clouds, the cloud banks catch against the escarpment and the valley appears and disappears through the mist, a scene much loved by photographers. Beside the viewpoint stands the small chapel of Virgen de la Caridad, built in 1924 with contributions from residents of San Andrés and Isora and emigrants to Cuba; walkers would commend themselves here before beginning the descent.

The Camino de Jinama (PR-EH 8) starts at the viewpoint. It is one of the island’s oldest paths and the historic route of the mudadas between the summit area and the valley. It is a demanding trail: around 8 kilometres with close to 885 metres of elevation change, normally taking about three hours. The upper section, stone-paved and full of tight bends, drops steeply from the chapel of La Caridad; the lower part, heading towards La Frontera, becomes gentler among farms and pasture. Mountain footwear, water and walking poles are recommended, and you should plan the return carefully, as the climb back is hard.

The viewpoint is in the central-eastern part of El Hierro, west of San Andrés. From Valverde, drive towards San Andrés and then take the road that climbs towards the summit and the edge of the escarpment, all the way to the viewpoint itself. Access is signposted and the road reaches the panoramic point directly, so no walk is required to look out over the valley. There is a large parking area, as well as a small rest area with tables beside the chapel.

The best time is on a clear day, when the El Golfo valley can be seen in full from the coast up to the escarpment; early morning usually gives the cleanest light. It is also worth visiting on sea-of-clouds days, although the mist can cover the view completely within minutes. At 1,230 metres and right on the edge of the escarpment, it is cool and often windy, so bring a jacket or windbreaker even in summer. If the fog is dense, take extra care near the edge.