What to See in El Hierro: A Complete Guide to the Meridian Island

The Mirador de la Peña, a César Manrique creation in Guarazoca, frames the classic view of the El Golfo valley, a vast natural amphitheatre of cliffs nearly 1,000 m high that opens onto the sea, carved out by a landslide some 15,000 years ago. Over in La Dehesa, El Sabinar is home to gnarled juniper trees twisted almost to the ground by the wind, standing beside the hermitage of the Virgen de los Reyes. Don't miss the Faro de Orchilla (once the site of the prime meridian), the sacred Garoé tree that the Bimbache people relied on to draw water from the mist, or the Guinea Eco-Museum with its enclosure for the rare giant lizard. La Llanía, set among laurel forest and old craters, is one of the island's most spellbinding walks.

El Hierro's signature is its volcanic rock pools, not its sand. The ones not to miss: La Maceta and the Charco Azul in El Golfo, with turquoise basins and walkways; the Pozo de las Calcosas in the north, tucked among stone cottages; and Tacorón, a sheltered cove ideal for snorkelling, close to La Restinga. Tamaduste is a protected, lagoon-like inlet that's perfect for families. For actual sand, there are only two practical choices: Timijiraque (black sand, on the east coast) and El Verodal (reddish sand, in the west, with currents). One key warning: many of the pools depend on a calm sea, and a northerly swell can make them dangerous, so it's well worth checking the sea conditions first.

Hiring a car is strongly recommended: the island is made for exploring at your own pace, and public transport is limited. Distances are short but the roads are mountainous, full of bends and tunnels, so it pays to allow plenty of time (it's 26 km and about 30 minutes from the airport to Frontera, and 41 km and nearly an hour to La Restinga). The TransHierro buses run 12 routes linking the main settlements, though services are infrequent and geared more towards residents. There's a 24-hour taxi service, including a wheelchair-accessible vehicle, with rough fares of around €28–30 from the airport to Frontera and €48–52 to La Restinga. Fill up in good time: petrol stations are few and close early.

El Hierro enjoys a mild subtropical climate all year round, with little variation between the seasons. The real contrast comes down to altitude and aspect: the north (Valverde, El Golfo) is wetter, cooler and cloudier thanks to the trade winds and its trademark sea of clouds, while the south (La Restinga, Mar de las Calmas) is warmer, drier and sunnier. For diving and swimming, the water is at its warmest from June to November, peaking in September and October. For walking, spring and autumn are ideal. Whatever the time of year, pack a light layer for the evenings and the higher ground, and it's worth chasing that sea of clouds from the Jinama or La Peña viewpoints.

The choice is small and full of character, the result of a deliberately limited approach to tourism: rural hotels, stone cottages, apartments, a campsite and the Parador de El Hierro. To pick an area: Valverde, Tamaduste and Echedo (north-east) make a practical base, close to the airport and the harbour; El Golfo, Frontera and Tigaday (west) offer a green valley, natural pools and local wine, a very well-rounded central base; and La Restinga (south) is essential if you've come to dive. At Las Playas, at the foot of the cliffs, you'll find the Parador and the famous Hotel Punta Grande, known for being among the smallest hotels in the world. In Sabinosa, the Pozo de la Salud spa is renowned for its historic mineral-medicinal waters.

The star product is El Hierro cheese, often smoked with fig wood, heather or prickly pear, an international award-winner, along with its sweet counterpart, the quesadilla. Pair it with El Hierro DO wine (full-bodied whites in particular), fresh fish with wrinkly potatoes and mojo, limpets, octopus, and hearty inland dishes such as watercress stew, puchero, or goat with gofio. There's even pineapple grown in El Golfo. A few practical pointers: book your car and ferry well ahead in high season, carry some cash as some businesses don't take cards, and respect the surroundings (a Biosphere Reserve and a marine reserve). The clear skies also make this a wonderful place for stargazing.