Ruta de los Volcanes: the GR-131 from El Pilar

The Ruta de los Volcanes lets you walk along one of La Palma's volcanic backbones. The route crosses pine forest, lapilli, cones, ridges and shifting views towards both sides of the island, with the volcanic south opening gradually towards Fuencaliente. The classic stage between the area around Refugio del Pilar and Los Canarios covers 17.4 km, with an indicative duration of 6 h 55 min, 1,207 m of accumulated ascent and 693 m of descent. In normal conditions it does not have to involve difficult technical passages, but it is a long, exposed route with no reliable water points along the way. Its appeal is not a single viewpoint, but the continuity of the landscape: each section changes in colour, texture and openness. On clear days, the feeling of walking along a ridge suspended between the eastern and western coasts is a central part of the experience.

The usual start is at Refugio del Pilar or nearby, close to Pico Birigoyo, with the finish planned in Los Canarios, in Fuencaliente. This is not a circular route, so logistics matter: leave a car at the end, arrange a taxi, use an organised transfer or check guagua combinations before setting off. Trying to improvise the return after seven hours of walking usually goes badly. If you start from Santa Cruz de La Palma or Los Llanos, include both the outward journey and the return in your full-day plan. You can also continue towards the lighthouse and the Salinas de Fuencaliente, but that adds distance and height change when your legs are already tired. Before starting, save taxi numbers and check expected mobile coverage in the area.

Do it only with a favourable weather forecast. The ridge can bring wind, mist, strong heat or fast changes even when the coast looks settled. Carry enough water, food, a cap, windbreaker, sun protection, a charged phone and hiking shoes with reliable soles. Start early and do not underestimate the ascent and descent: 17.4 km on volcanic ground is more tiring than the same distance on an easy track. If you are not used to long routes, consider a guide or organised transfer. Avoid the walk after storms, during heat or wind alerts, or if you have not secured return transport before setting off. The final stretch can feel long, so save energy for the descent and do not use all your water in the first half.