Charco del Palo (Lanzarote): natural pools and how to get there

Charco del Palo is a coastal enclave on the north-east of Lanzarote, in the municipality of Haría, built on lava flows that drop straight into the Atlantic. There is no sandy beach here: the shoreline is black rock, cut into small coves where the sea slips in and forms pools. It was developed around 1970 by the German entrepreneur Gregor Kaiser as the first naturist resort in the Canary Islands, and it still has that quiet, slightly hidden character, at the end of its own three-kilometre access road. People come for the natural pools, the almost lunar landscape and the slow, peaceful atmosphere, away from the island’s larger tourist centres.

The area has several coves adapted for bathing, with natural pools that rise and fall with the tide: at high tide, the water flows in and creates sheltered pools for swimming and watching fish; at low tide, the rock platforms are exposed. Some areas have stepped sun terraces, small sandy patches and steps or ramps into the water, as well as a natural break between pools that is suitable for snorkelling. Charco del Palo is an established naturist resort: nudism is permitted and widely practised around the pools, coves and terraces, in relaxed coexistence with visitors who prefer to swim in a swimsuit.

From Arrecife, take the LZ-1 north towards Tahíche, Guatiza, Mala and Arrieta. At Mala, take the clearly signposted turn-off towards the coast and Charco del Palo, then follow the road for around three kilometres until it ends in the settlement itself. There is no direct bus service, so it is best to arrive by car or taxi; the journey from Arrecife takes around half an hour. Once there, you will find unsupervised surface parking beside the resort; in high season or at weekends it can fill up, so arriving early is worthwhile.

Swimming here depends entirely on the tide and the state of the sea. The natural pools are most comfortable and safest at high or mid tide, when the water enters and forms sheltered basins; at low tide, the rocky bottom becomes exposed and slippery. Check the tide table before going and avoid swimming in rough seas, strong swell or ground sea, when waves can sweep across the platforms. There are no lifeguards, no supervision and no shower facilities, so bathing is always at your own risk: enter slowly, do not jump into unfamiliar areas and keep well away from edges exposed to the waves.

Bring water shoes or reef shoes: the volcanic rock is sharp and slippery, and they make getting in and out of the water much easier. Take water, sun protection and your own shade, because services are limited, with little more than a bar-restaurant and a small supermarket. Respect the naturist character of the place and the quiet of those who live there. As it is a small spot, it fits neatly into a route around northern Lanzarote: you can combine it with César Manrique’s Jardín de Cactus in Guatiza, the village of Mala and its prickly pear fields, or continue to Arrieta and Órzola for the ferry to La Graciosa.