Anaga (Tenerife): Guide to the Rural Park and Laurel Forest

Anaga is not a quick viewpoint outing. It is an old, humid, deeply carved mountain territory where the road climbs between ravines and the landscape changes within just a few kilometres. Its value lies in the laurel forest, cloud-wrapped ridges, isolated hamlets and the feeling of entering a Tenerife very different from the beaches of the south. General access is free, but it should not be treated like an urban park: here the weather, road and terrain set the terms.

The laurel forest of Anaga is a relic cloud forest, shaped by the moisture of the trade winds and by a plant landscape rarely found in Europe. The Sendero de los Sentidos, around Cruz del Carmen, is one of the easiest ways to experience that atmosphere without committing to a demanding route. There are many longer trails, but not all are suitable for every person or every day. Some specific routes may have quotas or require authorisation, so it is worth checking official information before setting out.

Anaga is also understood by descending towards hamlets such as Taganana, Afur or Chamorga, where the mountains fall towards the Atlantic and the sense of scale changes completely. The north coast has wild beaches, sea stacks and open ocean, with Benijo among its most powerful images. These are not domesticated beaches and they are not always suitable for swimming: swell, tide and currents can be serious. In Anaga, looking at the sea can already be the plan; entering the water only makes sense when conditions allow.

Anaga’s roads are narrow, curving and intensely scenic, but they require patience. Mist can appear frequently and reduce visibility, especially in the higher areas. Do not push the timetable, drive at night if you do not know the terrain, or park where the road narrows. Bring an extra layer even if you are coming from a sunny part of the island, because the contrast in temperature and humidity can be marked. On rainy days, reconsider whether hiking is sensible.

For a first visit, a sensible route might combine Cruz del Carmen, a viewpoint, a short stretch of laurel forest and a descent towards Taganana or the coast if conditions are good. If you want to hike properly, plan the route in advance and do not improvise with low battery, poor footwear or no water. Anaga is best enjoyed when you choose little and choose well: one forest, one viewpoint, one hamlet, one beach. Trying to see everything in a day usually ends in roads and rushing.